Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to discover these stories and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
